New Marvel 3.75" Appreciation Thread

Kamatayan · 09-09-2016, 02:18 PM

This is old news, but we haven't seen some closeup pics until now, so I thought I would mention this. The show Preacher is getting a figure line that includes the character Dominic Cooper plays, the actor who plays the young Howard Stark. The head could be shrunken down for a Howard Stark custom. Unfortunately, it doesn't look very much like Howard, but it's still pretty good.

LordMudd · 09-09-2016, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pilkster

How many more as Im hapy to go halfs on the 2 pack as I want the kree figures

So do I.

CCC.

Harbinger · 09-09-2016, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redx24

Getting rid of dagger any ideas what to do for cloak??

Hydra really messed with Bucky.

Whats really sad ( and scary )is that really works if ya shortened up the hair. haha

redx24 · 09-09-2016, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nitelife

Whats really sad ( and scary )is that really works if ya shortened up the hair. haha

Honestly how does a super assassin not have more of a military hairstyle unless the enhancements also made his hair all flowy and long

snake5289 · 09-09-2016, 05:51 PM

So if I could do this why couldn't you Hasbro? Would it have been so hard to reuse the ASM1 figures for the ASM2 line?

Sure they weren't the best figures ever made or anything but there were a few stand outs in the line and I thought this one in particular fit Spidey's build better than most of the other 3.75 Spider-Man figures.

En Sabah Nerd · 09-09-2016, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redx24

Honestly how does a super assassin not have more of a military hairstyle unless the enhancements also made his hair all flowy and long

Longer hair = more edgy, duh

Mordiganne · 09-09-2016, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snake5289

Any ideas on how to keep the paint from rubbing off on the joints? Specifically the elbows and shoulders?

I'll expand on this when I get to the tutorial but this is my method. Your results may vary and if you're at all hesitant about trying this, don't! I've been making customs for many, many years so this is second nature to me and I don't give it a second thought as I know what I can do and I know how the results will come out. I'll also preface this by saying that this method isn't for everyone as you can really ruin your figure if you're not careful (or slice the shit out of your fingers), so practice, practice, practice and practice some more if you want to give it a go. I developed this method when I first started swapping parts between bodies as some parts simply will not fit together without modification. That includes trimming away some of the plastic to achieve a good fit

That out of the way, this really only works if you disassemble and prep the figure prior to any painting. If you paint before testing the joints there's little you can do based on how the bodies fit together from the factory. For all the grief they get, Hasbro really does a great job in how the base bodies fit together. Anyway, let's just go with the shoulder for this....

You're going to need a SHARP x-acto blade, super glue and your base paint color.

The first thing to do is start with a THIN layer of paint on the shoulder ball. Let it dry completely then just roll the ball joint around and see all the places that the paint rubs off (remember to check the armpit area in case you want to elevate the arms when done). Those spots are where you need to trim, and I mean carefully TRIM the plastic. With a sharp blade you can shave off millimeters of plastic without ruining the joints or deforming the body. After you've trimmed, repaint and roll the ball around again. Keep doing this until the ball can roll without any paint coming off - this might take several tries before it's ready for the next part. If you're worried about jagged edges, slip a piece of sand paper in between the shoulder and the ball and work the edges until it's smooth. If the blade is sharp enough you won't need to worry about it, but it's a good habit to get into regardless.

Once you can move it around without paint coming off, paint the ball and the shoulder in your base coat, set it aside and let it dry for a couple of hours. Once it's completely dry put on your super glue - I use a kind that also makes a hard plastic coating when it cures so it's durable. After the glue dries paint over that with another thin layer and retest the joint movement - up/down/in a circle, etc. (The glue coating will preserve the base coat in case you didn't get all the rub spots. It also leaves a glossy shine so if you do get a rub anywhere you can see the gloss underneath. Makes it easy to fix/ touch up.) Testing the joint before your final paint job is important because each layer closes the gap between the joints and you don't want to undo all of your work.

Based on how you want to be able to pose your figure there's more tricks you can do. I'll show how pose-able my figures can be with Batroc (coming next batch) since I want him to be able to be "factory flexible" if I have him posed fighting Cap or whomever.

None of this is usually necessary for the female figures as the shoulder is completely outside of the body unlike the male figures. You just have to not glop the paint into the joint and it should move freely without any rubbing/chipping.

So, with all of that said, I can't stress enough that this isn't for everyone!! It does take time, patience and skill. Trial and error is ultimately the best method. Get/use some junk figures, experiment and find what methods work for how you want your customs to be.

And don't use super glue to seal an entire figure. It's messy and a waste of glue. Use a spray.

Ok, I'm going back to my customs. Have a great weekend all!

LordMudd · 09-09-2016, 09:19 PM

Medical specialist Una of the Kree Starship Pama.

Crew of the Pama.

CCC.

Jay West · 09-10-2016, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redx24

forgot all about this guy

Picked up star wars cantina this week so I'm thing super person dive bar.

Could we see a scale comparison pic on the Ralph figure. I assume that is the mini Hero's Duty figure. I always assumed it was small. Thanks!

KingKal · 09-10-2016, 12:06 PM

Added a Bossfight sword and scabbard, to offset the crappy sword she comes with. I gave her shin guards from the same set to add some color to her lower half.

redx24 · 09-10-2016, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jay West

Could we see a scale comparison pic on the Ralph figure. I assume that is the mini Hero's Duty figure. I always assumed it was small. Thanks!

Sorry don't have him anymore but to help figure his height was right at draxs ab's

Kamatayan · 09-10-2016, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingKal

Added a Bossfight sword and scabbard, to offset the crappy sword she comes with. I gave her shin guards from the same set to add some color to her lower half.

This is a very nice improvement of the figure. I'm gonna do this once the Boss Fight fantasy stuff comes out so that I can use the fantasy equivalent of these items because the sword and shinguards have a Greek/Roman armor feel to it, if you know what I mean. Just sticks out too much for me.

Jay West · 09-10-2016, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redx24

Sorry don't have him anymore but to help figure his height was right at draxs ab's

Thanks!

Lionheart · 09-11-2016, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingKal

Added a Bossfight sword and scabbard, to offset the crappy sword she comes with. I gave her shin guards from the same set to add some color to her lower half.

I liked the sword she came with - had a nice little dragon hilt and was true to the Dragonfang sword she used in the comics. Yours is nice for an alternate take though.

sh002 · 09-11-2016, 09:33 AM

All Marvel and DC Comics figures are 20% off at TRU until 9/17.

KingKal · 09-11-2016, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lionheart

I liked the sword she came with - had a nice little dragon hilt and was true to the Dragonfang sword she used in the comics. Yours is nice for an alternate take though.

I liked the design, but that soft plastic is just garbage for weapons.

MUfan97 · 09-11-2016, 11:24 AM

Gently cutting away the top of his elbow on his normal arm really helped with getting him into a semi-decent pose.

As good as one can get without wrists, anyway.

Kamatayan · 09-11-2016, 12:02 PM

Does anyone have any leftover Gambit staffs from Multiple Man army building or whatever? I need one for my DC Multiverse Robin. I'm willing to pay accordingly. Thanks!

redx24 · 09-11-2016, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kamatayan

Does anyone have any leftover Gambit staffs from Multiple Man army building or whatever? I need one for my DC Multiverse Robin. I'm willing to pay accordingly. Thanks!

I think a cable staff with the top thing cut off would look better

Feyd Rautha · 09-11-2016, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kamatayan

Does anyone have any leftover Gambit staffs from Multiple Man army building or whatever? I need one for my DC Multiverse Robin. I'm willing to pay accordingly. Thanks!

Pm'd you.

Autobot_Goldbug · 09-12-2016, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingKal

Added a Bossfight sword and scabbard, to offset the crappy sword she comes with. I gave her shin guards from the same set to add some color to her lower half.

crappy only because of the rubbery plastic
I bought the same sword from
Dragon headed sword
it is much more stiffer

redx24 · 09-12-2016, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Autobot_Goldbug

crappy only because of the rubbery plastic
I bought the same sword from
Dragon headed sword
it is much more stiffer

Isnt there a way to make the sword hard?

Ninjinister · 09-12-2016, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redx24

Isnt there a way to make the sword hard?

Um...
Yeah this one's just too easy.

MUfan97 · 09-12-2016, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redx24

Isnt there a way to make the sword hard?

Rub it.

snake5289 · 09-12-2016, 11:28 PM

Sure as long as you've got plenty of lube.

09-09-2016, 02:18 PM	#26476
Kamatayan Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 1,562	This is old news, but we haven't seen some closeup pics until now, so I thought I would mention this. The show Preacher is getting a figure line that includes the character Dominic Cooper plays, the actor who plays the young Howard Stark. The head could be shrunken down for a Howard Stark custom. Unfortunately, it doesn't look very much like Howard, but it's still pretty good. __________________ Feedback

09-09-2016, 04:55 PM	#26478
Harbinger Overlord of Evil Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Lost Ruins. Posts: 15,139	Quote: Originally Posted by redx24 Getting rid of dagger any ideas what to do for cloak?? Hydra really messed with Bucky. Whats really sad ( and scary )is that really works if ya shortened up the hair. haha __________________

09-09-2016, 05:18 PM	#26479
redx24 Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 2,008	Quote: Originally Posted by Nitelife Whats really sad ( and scary )is that really works if ya shortened up the hair. haha Honestly how does a super assassin not have more of a military hairstyle unless the enhancements also made his hair all flowy and long __________________ Feedback

09-09-2016, 06:08 PM	#26481
En Sabah Nerd Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Texas Posts: 9,789	Quote: Originally Posted by redx24 Honestly how does a super assassin not have more of a military hairstyle unless the enhancements also made his hair all flowy and long Longer hair = more edgy, duh __________________

09-09-2016, 07:21 PM	#26482
Mordiganne Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 947	Quote: Originally Posted by snake5289 Any ideas on how to keep the paint from rubbing off on the joints? Specifically the elbows and shoulders? I'll expand on this when I get to the tutorial but this is my method. Your results may vary and if you're at all hesitant about trying this, don't! I've been making customs for many, many years so this is second nature to me and I don't give it a second thought as I know what I can do and I know how the results will come out. I'll also preface this by saying that this method isn't for everyone as you can really ruin your figure if you're not careful (or slice the shit out of your fingers), so practice, practice, practice and practice some more if you want to give it a go. I developed this method when I first started swapping parts between bodies as some parts simply will not fit together without modification. That includes trimming away some of the plastic to achieve a good fit That out of the way, this really only works if you disassemble and prep the figure prior to any painting. If you paint before testing the joints there's little you can do based on how the bodies fit together from the factory. For all the grief they get, Hasbro really does a great job in how the base bodies fit together. Anyway, let's just go with the shoulder for this.... You're going to need a SHARP x-acto blade, super glue and your base paint color. The first thing to do is start with a THIN layer of paint on the shoulder ball. Let it dry completely then just roll the ball joint around and see all the places that the paint rubs off (remember to check the armpit area in case you want to elevate the arms when done). Those spots are where you need to trim, and I mean carefully TRIM the plastic. With a sharp blade you can shave off millimeters of plastic without ruining the joints or deforming the body. After you've trimmed, repaint and roll the ball around again. Keep doing this until the ball can roll without any paint coming off - this might take several tries before it's ready for the next part. If you're worried about jagged edges, slip a piece of sand paper in between the shoulder and the ball and work the edges until it's smooth. If the blade is sharp enough you won't need to worry about it, but it's a good habit to get into regardless. Once you can move it around without paint coming off, paint the ball and the shoulder in your base coat, set it aside and let it dry for a couple of hours. Once it's completely dry put on your super glue - I use a kind that also makes a hard plastic coating when it cures so it's durable. After the glue dries paint over that with another thin layer and retest the joint movement - up/down/in a circle, etc. (The glue coating will preserve the base coat in case you didn't get all the rub spots. It also leaves a glossy shine so if you do get a rub anywhere you can see the gloss underneath. Makes it easy to fix/ touch up.) Testing the joint before your final paint job is important because each layer closes the gap between the joints and you don't want to undo all of your work. Based on how you want to be able to pose your figure there's more tricks you can do. I'll show how pose-able my figures can be with Batroc (coming next batch) since I want him to be able to be "factory flexible" if I have him posed fighting Cap or whomever. None of this is usually necessary for the female figures as the shoulder is completely outside of the body unlike the male figures. You just have to not glop the paint into the joint and it should move freely without any rubbing/chipping. So, with all of that said, I can't stress enough that this isn't for everyone!! It does take time, patience and skill. Trial and error is ultimately the best method. Get/use some junk figures, experiment and find what methods work for how you want your customs to be. And don't use super glue to seal an entire figure. It's messy and a waste of glue. Use a spray. Ok, I'm going back to my customs. Have a great weekend all! Last edited by Mordiganne; 09-09-2016 at 07:25 PM..