[Joe Moore]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trivial Psychic

Don't be so harsh on the Bad Blood Predator. He's not a blood thirsty maniac out to kill everything like you stated...he is simply just collecting DNA to further the evolution of his own species.

This is an easy pass for me as I have both of the originals as is, and having seen this up front in the stores I'm not really wild about the new masked and unmasked head sculpts.

Also, I'm not saying that you are being untruthful, however I'd be curious to know what your definition of "paint locking" is. Nearly every Predator that I have purchased (since they moved to this upgraded body) over the last two years (with the Jungle Demon and recent Thermal Predator being the lone exceptions) has had a paint locking issue on at least one of the joints where I've had to apply a dense amount of heat and gently (as well as with a degree of anxiety) move the joint until that paint tore, allowing me to move the joint. This is an issue you seemingly never run into.

One a side note, the figures do feel a bit more durable as of late than those that were released on the older body molds.

If I can't move a joint, either because the paint has covered the connection or was still tacky when it was assembled, then I consider it paint locked. If I need to use a hair dryer to loosen up the joint because there's no give to them, I'll consider that paint locked as well. I don't consider all tight joints to be paint locking issues, but do tend to note if I run into a figure whose joints don't feel like they have an appropriate amount of give to them.

I run into it from time to time, though not as frequently as some claim to. Some of my cases were the McFarlane Stranger Things Ghostbuster set, the Ahab Predator (I didn't mention paint lock, but did note that they had to be heated up for being far too tight), DST Ghostbusters.

Hopefully that helps to see where I'm coming from. I tended to run into more loose joints than paint locking issues last year.