[Tony_Bacala]

Below is a set of testing I did to see if using a Close Up Lens / Filter on a sharp prime lens would work for action figure photography in place of a dedicated macro lens. Why you ask, well, the system I use is new and doesn't yet have a native dedicated Macro lens available. So, instead of buying a Canon or Nikon lens and adapter to make it work on my Sony, I tested this out.

Please take it as an unscientific, quick set of tests. Specifically for my situation, for what and how I shoot. I shoot handheld for the ability to get dynamic angles, and I like to shoot close and sitting down so I can position figures quickly. Being close in, and not cropping, are desired for my situation. Gear needs to match that, if possible. Anyway, here we go...

Sony A7 Macro Study

Sony A7
Zeiss FE 35mm
Sony E 30mm Macro
Hoya Close Up Lens / Filter 3 pack

Sony's FE Mount currently does not have a native Macro option. I bought the A7 for several reasons - to increase IQ of studio based product photography, to increase noise reduction when shooting without flash indoors due to the larger sensor, and because I like buying new cutting edge shit.

One thing I found when moving up to full frame from APS-C was that the minimum focusing distance for the lenses were longer. Before I could get in 6-8 inches from the tip of the glass to the subject, now I am at 10-13. Depth of field was also shallower at the same distances on same settings. Going to f/18+ isn't describable as the sweet spot for clarity on most lenses is f/5.6 - f/8. So, to compensate for that, you need to move the camera back even further at times.

In my small object product photography world, I now have a nice 24 MP camera with 6000 x 4000 pixel pics, and 50% of the frame is dead space because I either have to be far away due to MFD, or, chose to be for DOF considerations. Cropping in is fine, but I'm now back down to a 2000 pixel wide shot (or smaller).

Yes, there are adapters and legacy glass, but, I don't want to do that. I want to spend my money on native lenses. I could have also gone with the A7r if I was that concerned with sharpness and size, but I do need to use it for other things.

I also purchased the FE35mm from Zeiss. It's a great walk around lens, and I've been using it in the studio as my primary lens. I probably should have gone for the FE 50mm, but I didn't so I roll with this. It does produce great sharp images, but it can't focus close enough on small objects. I don't shoot portraits (of humans) or landscape. I shoot 4-12 inch figures on a table, and similar things behind glass at trade shows. Done. Everything else is casual.

I have the 30mm e-mount macro lens as well from the NEX system. This lens was great because you can almost touch the subject with the lens. MFD basically doesn't exist. However, when used on the A7, goes into APS-C mode, immediately reducing the largest pic to 4000 x 2600 (roughly). And, it's not the best lens, it can be soft and colors are weak.

So, what to do. I recently got what is called a Close-Up Lens or close-up filter. It screws onto the front of your lens like any other filter, and is basically a magnifying glass. They come in multiple strengths, and can be stacked. So you can add a +4, a +2, and a +1 for a total zoom of +7. It decreases the minimum focusing distance, so you can get your camera and lens closer to the subject. Key point for small object photography where you don't want to crop. So, that's good to go.

Depth of field gets shallow compared to a shot without the close-up lens on at the same settings, but it's minor. One or two stops if you need to gets you back.

One thing many mentioned is that when using a close up filter, you lose image quality. That is probably true, but in this scenario, it's still a better option. A dedicated Macro from another company and adapter will cost you anywhere from 400-1000 bucks depending on your needs. This set was 35 bucks. On top of that, as seen below, the 35mm FE Zeiss with the Close Up lens is just as, if not more sharp than the 30mm Macro E mount. And, the final images are larger, so you can either use the full shot for 6000 px, or, crop in even closer and have a more magnified image at the same size as the full size 30mm shot.

Anyway, bottom line, unscientifically, a great prime with a good close up filter can get you by for macro like shots until Sony gets a native FE Macro out on the market.

Now, let's look at my tests. This was done quick and dirty, using a set of processing I normally put on these types of shots. They are not "right off the camera". Each of the shots are with the camera at the absolute closest possible to the subject allowing for focusing. All shots at f/11, 1/160th shutter, ISO 100. Single Alien Bee 400 strobe with softbox and reflectors.

Click the thumbnails to open full size JPGs exported from Lightroom.

Zeiss FE 35mm - No Close Up Filter.
This is what I would normally get. Notice how most of the space in the shot is empty/dead. Cropping is necessary.



And, a cropped version. Size: 831 x 831 px. Small for even pure web use.



Zeiss FE 35mm - Close Up Filter, +4 Diopter
This is the max single close up lens available in my set up. One screw-on lens on top of the 35mm FE. They do go higher tho. Still a lot of dead space, but better. Cropping still necessary.



And the cropped version. Size: 1731 x 1731 px. Good for web use, but 2000+ is desired.



Now, let's get crazy and stack them.

Zeiss FE 35mm - Close Up Filter, +4 Diopter & +2 Diopter, stacked for a total of +6.
Much better, if it were not a head shot, would be minimal dead space, could get away without crop.



And, cropped. Size: 2152 x 2152. Good for web use. Full body or a multi figure framing would give you 6000 x 4000 at this IQ.



Now, let's go over to the E Mount 30mm Macro in APS-C Mode

Sony 30mm Macro, No Close Up Filter.
As you can see, you can get right up on the subject. Can actually go a little closer, but it cropped the head, so for consistencies sake a stayed back a bit.



And cropped. Size: 2179 x 2179. Only slightly larger than the cropped Fe35 with +6 Diopter. I'd argue the FE35 is sharper with better colors as well. And, for wider shots not requiring cropping, the FE35 shot will produce a larger 6000 x 4000 image.



So there you go. If you shoot small objects on the larger end - aka, macro that isn't coins, jewelery, bugs, etc - a close up filter and a sharp prime could be useable instead of a macro. But if you can get a great sharp macro lens, that would probably be best. Hope all this made sense and helps some folks out!

You can grab a set of close up filters on Amazon here: Hoya Close Up Filters