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#1 |
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 961
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I've relatively new to this. I've seen regular flat stands for 3.75 inch figures with the 3/32 pegs in clear and black. They look good for the figures that just stand. However, the stands that Hasbro had the MUs on at SDCC looked like they custom fab'd them. Any idea how to start doing something like that? Hot glue?
I haven't seen any aftermarket "flight stands" in the MU scale. Are there any? Maybe this is something that should be DIY? The MU's that I've opened have hex-shaped holes. Do these 3rd party stands like Protech come with hex pegs? |
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#2 |
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 961
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After more inspection, I suppose the Hasbro display MUs were just hot-glued to some blank stands.
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#3 |
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC.
Posts: 590
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I use the Protech clear stands. There are two types, the ones for the vintage star wars figures, and ones for star wars figures after 1994 or 1995. I use the latter. And no, the Protech ones I use are round pegs. They fit fine though.
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#4 |
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 961
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This Di:Stage customizable base looks very trick and provides lots of flexibility.
Di:Stage Customizable Action Figure Basic Display Set - MAX FACTORY - Di:Stage - Accessories at Entertainment Earth These are designed for Figmas, right? Would it be too large an option for posing MU? |
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#5 |
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 961
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I created my own flight stands after I got a hold of some Protech stands and decided that I liked them. I didn't know much about gluing acrylic but it seemed pretty simple to attach some arms to the stand. I just followed a vid on Youtube to learn to glue.
I found a local plastic supply store that would sell retail. I just walked in, told them what I wanted, they cut it and I bought the plastic, glue, applicator there then went to Home Depot to pick up some screws. I bought one 5' rod of 1/4" extruded acrylic in square shape. I also bought 1' of rod in half-circle shape that came in 1" diameter. At the Depot I bought a $1 package of screws and nuts. It took me about an hour to make the two stands in the picture. The supplies I used to make one are: 1 clear Protech stand with 3/32 peg (new style) 1 3" extruded acrylic rod, square, 1/4" 1 4" extruded acrylic rod, square, 1/4" 1 1" quarter-circle acrylic rod cut into 1/4" length 2 #4-40 x 3/4 machine screws w/pan (i.e. round) head and nuts 1 rubber band or twist tie Tools needed: Hack saw with fine teeth (preferably a fresh blade) Hand-held drill (or drill press) 7/64 drill bit Acrylic glue Acrylic glue applicator (needle point) Small screwdriver (flat blade) 6mm wrench (optional) (or whatever size the nuts are) 1. Cut (one): First, cut the rod. You can go with different lengths with the rod instead of 3"-4". Longer or shorter. I think I might have been able to go 5" on them. 2. Cut (two): Cut 1/4" off of the half-circle rod. Then cut it in half again so you have 2 quarter circles of 1/4" length. You can use the second piece for the next stand you do. 3. Drill (one): Drill a hole towards the top of the quarter circle piece. After drilling a hole or two, you should find a nice slow drill speed that doesn't melt the plastic and leave your bit stuck in the plastic. Also, its best to go slow so the bit doesn't slide around while you're trying to get started. This is where a press comes in handy. 4. Glue: Glue the original shiny side of the quarter circle down on the top of the Protech stand on the side opposite the peg. This lets you stand another figure below your flying one, perhaps defending itself. 5. Drill (two): Drill holes for the screws in ends of the longer rod. Drill one hole in the end of the shorter rod. 6. Notch: Either drill a notch in the other end of the short piece (this is tricky), or use a hack saw to saw two close cuts half way through and break out the tang that is left to leave the notch (this is easier but takes longer). 7. Assemble: Now the glue should have dried enough to assemble the rods to the base with the two screws and nuts. Use the screwdriver and wrench as needed. The screws should be tight enough to still let the arms move and not loosen. 8. Attach! Attach a figure with either a rubber band or a twist tie (from garbage bags) like in the picture. These are the steps I left out: i. You can polish the cuts you made so that they are shiny. I did not have any MAP gas lying around (only propane). ii. You can make you own base from acrylic sheet instead of using a Protech stand as a base. I imagine the stands are 1/8" thick and 2" in diameter. A custom 3" by 3" square would probably be good. iii. It may even be possible to order 3/32" rod and glue your own pegs to the sheet that you bought in step ii. Make your own stands! The glue essentially chemically melts the plastic together, so I imagine it would be strong enough. I am sure the Protech pegs are from the molds though. iv. It would be great to figure out how to get the nuts to stay put while pivoting the arms. Its only a nuisance Perhaps if I heated them up, they might melt themselves in place. v. The end with the notch and the attaching method needs some work. The tip may need to be rounded or have a rubber end to give friction to the figure while posing it. Custom making a spring-loaded claw is out of my league. If the figure had back holes, it would be simple additional step to have a round tip to spear them with. |
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#6 |
Dark Lord of the 'Ark
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 8,224
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You should post that in the Customs General Discussion forum. It's a great how-to for people who want to make their own stands.
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