[Shin Densetsu]

Which VF-1 toys from Yamato do you prefer, the big, 1/48, or the new v2 1/60 VF-1 versions?

Initially, after opening my v2 1/60 Roy, I preferred the new 1/60. In many ways I still do. Then I got Yamato'd. The hinges broke. I have cracks on both shoulder hinges. Not cool. Only a matter of time before my Roy 1S is armless like in Force of Arms.

It is then that I checked out my 1/48 VF-1S Hikaru custom, and realized how durable it is. All you need to avoid is the BP8 backpack piece, don't fold it over the stopper, and it won't break. The hinges can be put through hell, and survive.

Aesthetically, I prefer the V2 1/60 in battroid mode, I love how it is the most toyetic VF-1 toy by Yamato thus far, moreso than the 1/48 in many ways, except for the hinges. I love the balanced appearance, and how the arms are hidden in fighter mode.

I hear the new hinges are better, with a smaller diameter pin and thicker plastic. Hopefully this decimates the breakage problem.

The 1/48 has the better nosecone, and aside from the low hanging arms, the better fighter mode.

Both are great toys, it's just the 1/48's breakage point(BP8) is much easier to avoid than the 1/60's hinges.

I need to sleep, but which version do you all prefer?

[Razerwire]

Wait, what part breaks easily on the 1/48? Are there pics? So far my 1/48 VF-1S Roy and VF-1J Max have been solid.

But I do want to know about this possibility of breakage so I can avoid it.

As for preference, I prefer the 1/48s although I don't own a 1/60 so my preference is biased.

I just love the sheer size of the 1/48s. It's pretty much transformable art for me.

[Shin Densetsu]

Quote:

Wait, what part breaks easily on the 1/48? Are there pics? So far my 1/48 VF-1S Roy and VF-1J Max have been solid.

Backpack piece, BP8. Do not push it beyond the stopper when going to gerwalk or battroid mode. If you do, it will crack at the hinges and break off.

[QuinJester]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Razerwire

Wait, what part breaks easily on the 1/48? Are there pics? So far my 1/48 VF-1S Roy and VF-1J Max have been solid.

But I do want to know about this possibility of breakage so I can avoid it.

As for preference, I prefer the 1/48s although I don't own a 1/60 so my preference is biased.

I just love the sheer size of the 1/48s. It's pretty much transformable art for me.

Essentially, it works like this:

(Important note: TREAT THIS LIKE ONE OF THOSE "READ ALL THE WAY TO THE END" EXCERCIZES YOU GOT IN ELEMENTARY SCHOOL. DO NOT ACTUALLY DO ANY OF THESE HYPOTHETICAL ACTIONS BELOW.)

When you transform the figure's backpack, it may seem a little floppy, like it's not locked in all the way (this is because you haven't pushed in the upper back area for the backpack flip hook to lock into; it sinks in towards the head. If you know to do this, then you will never have this problem, and will be happy). You will then look at the design of the hinge and think to yourself "well, that looks like it should be perpendicular to the ground, not angled down like that", at which point you will assume that to lock the backpack all the way it should be pushed up to pop it in place. You will do this, then look in horror as the backpack comes away in your hand, the hinge snapped and unrepairable.

There will be much snarling and gnashing of teeth to follow.

[Razerwire]

Whew. Good thing I've been transforming mine right all this time then.

[Optimus Scourge]

Quote:

Originally Posted by QuinJester

Essentially, it works like this:

When you transform the figure's backpack, it may seem a little floppy, like it's not locked in all the way (this is because you haven't pushed in the upper back area for the backpack flip hook to lock into; it sinks in towards the head. If you know to do this, then you will never have this problem, and will be happy). You will then look at the design of the hinge and think to yourself "well, that looks like it should be perpendicular to the ground, not angled down like that", at which point you will assume that to lock the backpack all the way it should be pushed up to pop it in place. You will do this, then look in horror as the backpack comes away in your hand, the hinge snapped and unrepairable.

There will be much snarling and gnashing of teeth to follow.

My poor 1/48 Roy. I glued it. I was so pissed I just....aaarrrrrr !@#$%^&*() YAMATO!!!!

[Razerwire]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Optimus Scourge

My poor 1/48 Roy. I glued it. I was so pissed I just....aaarrrrrr !@#$%^&*() YAMATO!!!!

That sucks nards. I broke my Roy as well. But mine's not so severe.

The legs at the knees have these two small somewhat fragile tabs that prevent them from extending all the way forwards in gerwalk mode. I accidentally extended them too far while trying to do a pose.

But as long as I stay within the ratchets it's fine.

[Shin Densetsu]

Hey guys, do any of you have the TV VF-1's in 1/48 scale? As in Hikaru, Max, or Milia's VF-1J, or any of the TV VF-1A's?

If so, can the TV style hands, like the trigger hand, and fists, be left on in fighter mode? Not in the forearm mind you, I realize they are too big to retract, but left on the plane, so that the hands stick out in the back.

The reason I ask, is because I don't give a damn if they can't retract back in, if I get a TV 1/48, I want to be able to keep at least a fist, and gun hand on the toy at all times, rather than have to keep swapping.

[Razerwire]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shin Densetsu

Hey guys, do any of you have the TV VF-1's in 1/48 scale? As in Hikaru, Max, or Milia's VF-1J, or any of the TV VF-1A's?

If so, can the TV style hands, like the trigger hand, and fists, be left on in fighter mode? Not in the forearm mind you, I realize they are too big to retract, but left on the plane, so that the hands stick out in the back.

The reason I ask, is because I don't give a damn if they can't retract back in, if I get a TV 1/48, I want to be able to keep at least a fist, and gun hand on the toy at all times, rather than have to keep swapping.

The fists might be too wide to fit in such close quarters in fighter mode.

I'll give it a try tomorrow. The fists are in the box somewhere. My Max has the trigger hand and the extended fingers hand on right now.

[Shin Densetsu]

Quote:

I'll give it a try tomorrow. The fists are in the box somewhere. My Max has the trigger hand and the extended fingers hand on right now.

Cool, when you chick, can you keep the trigger hand on, and have the left hand be one of the fists?

[mechamasterj]

I have read that the 1/60 versions are better then the 1/48 but I dont own either so I cant really say anything about them.

[Razerwire]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shin Densetsu

Cool, when you check, can you keep the trigger hand on, and have the left hand be one of the fists?

You're in luck, it works with some space to spare.

[QuinJester]

I actually like the 1/60 more. It feels more solid (the 1/48 can be kind of eggshell-y feeling, even though it's structurally sound), and the fastpacks are a breeze to put on, vs. the cold-sweat inducing struggle with the packs over the easily-damaged BP-8 piece.

You can't beat the 1/48 for shelf presence, though, and I prefer its proportions overall. I like the bigger chest and longer nosecone. It makes the figure look more brutish and imposing.



With my display shelves getting more and more cramped though, the smaller 1/60 size is a boon.

[Razerwire]

The hands on the 1/60 look far better than the non anime hands on the 1/48.

[Shin Densetsu]

Quote:

You're in luck, it works with some space to spare.

Awesome, so in fighter mode, the backpack and whatnot can still lock together securely, without the trigger hand and left fist getting in the way?

Also, have the shoulder joints on anyone's 1/48's loosened up? Mine have over the years, on my 1/48 VF-1S Hikaru custom.

Quote:

The hands on the 1/60 look far better than the non anime hands on the 1/48.

Hell yeah, surprisingly enough, they are actually the same size.

Quote:

I actually like the 1/60 more. It feels more solid

I do as well, the 1/60 doesn't outdo the 1/48 in every area, but it definitely feels more toyetic without sacrificing aesthetics. Now the key areas that need to be rectified to prevent anyone from being Yamato'd are the shoulder hinges, which I hear are fixed on the Max versions.

I think that the pre-Max releases will have cracked hinges inevitably.

[Razerwire]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shin Densetsu

Awesome, so in fighter mode, the backpack and whatnot can still lock together securely, without the trigger hand and left fist getting in the way?

Yup, no problems in securing the backpack to the legs with the hands attached.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shin Densetsu

Also, have the shoulder joints on anyone's 1/48's loosened up? Mine have over the years, on my 1/48 VF-1S Hikaru custom.

Both of mine are still pretty tight.

[Shin Densetsu]

Quote:

Yup, no problems in securing the backpack to the legs with the hands attached.

What about with the open left hand, perhaps twisted ?

[Razerwire]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shin Densetsu

What about with the open left hand, perhaps twisted ?

Tried that too. It works but you do have to angle it a bit.

[Shin Densetsu]

Quote:

Tried that too. It works but you do have to angle it a bit.

Sweet, so the backpack can still lock to the legs I presume? Can you post pics?

[Razerwire]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shin Densetsu

Sweet, so the backpack can still lock to the legs I presume? Can you post pics?

Yeah the backpack will still lock into the legs.

I'll post pics tomorrow when I have time.

[Shin Densetsu]

Quote:

I'll post pics tomorrow when I have time.

Awesome, thanks in advance man!

[Optimus Scourge]

Quote:

Originally Posted by QuinJester

*IMG*

That pic is sweet!

[Razerwire]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shin Densetsu

Awesome, thanks in advance man!

Here you go!

[Shin Densetsu]

Thanks for the pics Razerwire! Damn....I feel like buying more 1/48's.....even Yamato knows it's still a beloved line..Roy keeps being re-released every few months to keep up with demand, same with Hikaru's 1J...

[Shin Densetsu]

Alright brothers, apparently to fix cracked 1/60 VF-1 shoulder hinges, a trick is to coat the crack with super glue, and while the glue takes time to dry, constantly move the hinge so the pin does not get glued to the hinge.

Apparently this has worked and the owner who tried this said his has not broken even after constant posing/play, since. Is any brave soul here with cracked hinges going to try? I might this weekend(need to find that damn krazy glue).